Forró on loudspeakers, Senhor do Bonfim tapes on trees, tiled floors and walls lined with shelves with cachaça transport the Macaxeira restaurant audience to the Northeast.
Like other large northeastern houses in São Paulo, such as Mocotó and Nação Nordestina, Macaxeira is far from the traditional gastronomic axis of São Paulo: the restaurant takes up an entire block from Emília Marengo street, the busiest in the Anália Franco region, on the east side.
The house has some specialties, such as exquisite caipirinhas, dry cracklings and moist baião de two. But what is really unmissable is the local Achado: a portion of chicken gizzards cooked in a sauce, with cherry tomatoes, pepper and bacon, which costs R$ 34.90 and is served with bread.
“For those who like it, I still bring some chopped coriander and chili pepper. Then, yes, it’s complete,” says Vitor Temperani, one of the four cousins who are partners in Grupo Anália, which also includes Uru Mar y Parrilla and a complex of restaurants, all in the same region.
The gizzard arrived on the menu through the hands of Vitor’s brother, Danilo, also a partner. “He worked at a bank and discovered the dish at a restaurant in the neighborhood where we lived, Vila Maria.” The bet on including the recipe in Macaxeira was made blindly to the other cousins, who had never tasted the delicacy before. “Today, for me, it’s the best dish in the restaurant”, declares Vitor. The recipe has been on the menu since the establishment’s first day of operation, in September 2015.
As a main dish, the suggestion is shredded jerked beef with red onion and pulled in bottled butter, which costs R$ 89.90 for two people. The recipe is served with chili pepper, boiled cassava plus roasted pumpkin or roasted banana. To drink, the tip is the new caipirinha Quebra Conceito, made with João Mendes cachaça, Vitória grape, Sicilian lemon and sugar with spices, at a price of R$ 27.90.