Playful, graphic and colorful: Dior makes its revolution

A-line attire in inexperienced and orange, giant butterfly print, coral and lavender coat, shorts, mini-skirts and structured jackets: the spring-summer 2022 assortment contrasts with the same old, fluid and nuanced model of the creative director of ladies’s vogue from Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri.

Has the pandemic modified the best way we reside and the best way we costume? “There is a change in the way we feel, we all feel more vulnerable, then everyone reacts in their own way, some want to shut themselves up, others to live fully. For me, you have to live well every day, ”the Italian designer instructed AFP throughout a preview.

In her strategy, she follows Marc Bohan, creative director who made the primary ready-to-wear assortment for Dior and the Dior sport line with ski outfits in “technical” supplies within the 60s. A “slim look” for liberated and transferring girls simply as revolutionary as Christian Dior’s extremely female post-war New Look.

“It’s not just the bar jacket”

For a number of seasons, Maria Grazia Chiuri has been remodeling the fitted bar jacket, a stylistic emblem of the New Look, to make it extra versatile and away from the physique. This season, there are only a few and the emphasis is on the “boxy” (sq.) line. “There is real work on the jacket. I wanted to show that it’s not just the bar jacket ”within the clothes lexicon of the home, she emphasizes.

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The sportswear, very current within the cruise parade introduced in a stadium in Athens this summer time, is put in with materials corresponding to scuba (neoprene) and outfits impressed by bowling. “We understood during the pandemic the importance of sport, not in a performative sense, but as the idea of ​​feeling good. We have been locked up, we have the need to maintain ourselves physically ”, explains Maria Grazia Chiuri.

“We need to get out of black and navy blue”

The brand new model shocked even the Dior workshops. “It’s minimalist, very geometric in rigid fabrics. There is very little embroidery. Compared to our usual work, it’s very different ”, tells AFP Pascal Coppin, head of“ fuzzy ”workshops answerable for attire and fluid outfits. The attire are this time structured, with pockets, there are only a few aerial attire, signature of Maria Grazia Chiuri. Technical materials corresponding to neoprene give a tough time: it was mandatory “to make tests to find the finishes”.

“I prefer it lots, it is a radical change, it is good, it is younger, it is optimistic, we’d like that, colours, to get out of black and navy blue, to see prints virtually just a little Brazilian, ”emphasizes Pascal Coppin.

The scenography of the parade designed by the Italian Anna Paparatti, a determine of the Roman artwork scene of the Sixties, can be surprising, like this assortment between the “play of the absurd” and the efficiency. “This collection starts from the need to show how fashion is a game that has playful aspects, but also very important educational ones,” emphasizes Maria Grazia Chiuri. “People use fashion to express themselves, to play, to represent themselves. Finally, fashion is a great performance, ”she concludes.

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(The important / AFP)

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